Its been a while- heres the update!

The fabric finally arrived after lots of phone calls, lost deliveries and stress, so I just got on with. Painting and printing from 9 till 9. Assessing what prints were the bows and which were the main bodice, what normally determined the bows were unsuccessful prints due to lack of line quality, confusion and unsuccessful composition. The main bodice were successful due to clarity, refinement, variety and quality of line and composition.

PHOTOGRAPHY- cubiqdesign photographed my work for me in their professional studio. I was very pleased with the results as vibrancy of colour and fluidity of print translates across in the photographs.

STUDIO G- 2 very long days later there were all finished and I had managed to do 9, so headed off to studio g to show Glen my prints, he said they were fresh and vibrant. And later accepted my work to go to NY and LA tradeshows as a freelance designer for studio g.

Boards

MOOD BOARD

The pictures taken by cubiq have a slight grey background and need to be retaken by louise in the photography studio with softer light. Ive been working on boards and realised once completion that I needed to change it from landscape to portrait as it flows better in a portfolio. My sequence starts with a cover page- mood board- development boards- sample board- illustration board- collection. The mood board embodies all of the influential aspects to my collection and the colour story is prominent throughout, uniformity is also evident, giving it a strong identity. Im very pleased with the final outcome of my boards and my development with photoshop. Im also very pleased with the progress made on my sketchbook and annotation. Im learning that consistency is crucial.

Downer

Today I was challenged with lots of issues, have overcome most of them:

FABRIC, the silk satin looks so much better than silk twill and silk cotton, it retains the vibrant colour, has a gentle rich tactile texture to it which illuminates a lush indulgence, proving that the silk satin triumphs over the other fabrics. Noticing this weeks ago ordered with Whaleys the silk satin fabric but due to a burglary my order was not noted, so i bought some but it had a polyester finish therefore the dye did not hold to the fabric. Ordered some today with the uni from Whaleys, so I'm hoping it will be there by Thursday so I can carry on with my printing.

BOWS, following on my tutors remarks on the bows I started to produce constructed bows instead of the tied bows. But these look rigid and don't have the fluidity and natural element to them. The tied bows look better and fit with the design of my prints.

DRAWING, Today i focused on drawing my designs as a collection. This is half way there but in my first two attempts I was using too much colour which looked loud and garish. The outline drawing is developed and looks stable, proportioned and emotional, I will present the colours in a delicate way as to not overpower the design.

These were my struggles today and I'm hoping by Thursday the fabric will be delivered for printing, and will look on everything with fresh eyes, this will hopefully re-inspire and motivate me.

Dyslexia session on Dissertation

After my Dyslexia session I left feeling like alot of work needs to be done, I already knew this but I need to work on other aspects too, like my writing styles, paragraphic, academic references and ethnicity from the case-study.

My academic writing style needs to be seriously improved and she will de doing a series of exercises to help improve these skills. I felt like I was improving rapidly on this area with all of the editorials I'm writing for the magazine, however the style is colloquial not academic.

I also restructured my dissertation with paragraphs and created an additional section to allow more historical academic referencing. The appendix section was clarified and further explained, I am able to move some material into this area allowing more space to tackle the question.

Next week I'm tackling an area called ethnicity. Not too sure what its all about so will raid the library to have some knowledge on this subject.

The outcome was generally positive from my first draft, but my writing needs to have more clarity and I need to write in an academic style . The tutor commented on my concept and paragraphs saying they were very good but needs to have the 'academic quality' to it.

Review, Evaluate, Print, Sew- Job Done!

Evaluating some of my designs the animal prints are the most successful and I also need to keep my colour separate as they starting to all look similar. Central Image doesn't have the same

sense of power and status, my interpretation of animal skins looks vibrant, clarified and refined. The satin on the left looks far more beautiful than the silk twill, left. Which is essential to the appeal of my designs.

Noticing that the animal prints have the most impact and my colour use is looking the same and need to keep the colours separate instead of using all of them. I printed and part constructed a top with georgette in the middle, and recreating a print from the sk

etch book using masking tape to section strips out and then painting back in, using a hint of purple to give a punch and variation. The georgette also give variation whilst enhancing the linear design.

By constantly reviewing, evaluating and referring to my print work and sketchbook I can ensure that the collection is looking refreshing, vibrant, feminine and variable.

Construction Time

The construction went better than expected, 2 tops were constructed on Thursday and the marriage of fabrics looks powerful.

IMAGE: (left)The bow and straps are a rich, dark painted style of leopard spots both printed on silk cotton with. A hint of dusky green combined with aqua blue, black and grey in a connected spot design which creates a flowing, feminine yet powerful concept.

The method of construction:

• Cutting 2 pieces of fabric in the same rectangle shapes then painting onto the back of a screen to create by designs before squighing through the paste to imprint the design on the fabric.
• Selecting the top and straps before cutting and sewing the straps together in a tube creating a slopping angle at the bottom to heighten drama and elegance. Then Pulling it through and pressing, I then refer to my pattern to cut the straps at different lengths.
• Overlock the main bodice in a neutral colour.
• Refer to pattern marking for intercession at top of bodice, cut, press sides slightly in then stitch in purple.
• The loop at the top of the bodice is double folded whilst pressing then stitched in purple.
• Turn up the h
  
  em, deciding if it needs to be double stitched or singularly all in purple.

IMAGE:(right) This top marries alligator skin with a

human skeletal system, the straps, hem and bow being inspired from the skeleton, printed on georgette, the alligator skin being the main body in a lush satin, both created in my signature style of colourful engertic painting. This one is the most successful due to the rich colouring being enhanced by the satin, the satin also creates a delicate fluid movement. The print design in the main body is very rich and beautiful which generates the success.

I need to purchase some more satin as it enhances the procion inks.

The hem on this design was part of the georgette skeleton to give more length and variation, as I can foresee my designs being too similar in style, so will be re-creating and and varying the options of construction to give definition and enhancement to each design.

nktbe magazine

Ive been doing alot of nktbe magazine recently:

Writing the media pack

for prospective clients, i also had to research the competitors pricing which was hilarious.

Ive been writting the sales letters for both magazines.

Restaurant review, sampling and experiencing Bang Bangs a new sexy sausage and mash restaurant in Bury St Edmunds.

Styling and selecting for clothing for editorials from the local boutiques also running the photo-shoots for those editorials.

Writing various fashion editorials for both men and women advising on current trends and styling, also investment buys.

Running around handing out the winter guides to drop off points in Newmarket and Bury St. Edmunds (which I wrote by the way)

I've als

o been writing the blogs for their webpage, IMAGE: left is from the blog page on the winter guide.

I'm also the new resident Style Stalker where Im on the streets taking pictures of stylish people.

Still loving it, www.nktbe.co.uk/ www.velvetmag.co.uk

does fashion affect immoral behaviuor

The first draft of dissertation was in yesterday, i cant say that im pleased with it, i cant quite pinpoint what it is, I'm sure my tutorial session will help.

IMAGE (left) I discussed the role of the mini skirt, in the 60s it represented freedom, no

w-days it can represent a powerful chic business woman, or a lady of the night depending on the surroundings we determine what the person represents.

I am still discovering new material through reading books; the references and citations lead me onto other material that helps.

My use of imagery i feel still could be refined, some of the pictures i took for the case-study haven't printed well at all, so i will re-take those to ensure my picture quality will be pristine, and hopefully the print quality will improve.

IMAGE (left) imagery from my case study, the blurry quality needs to amended, all of the girls that partook in my study emotions and feeling changed depending the outfit, the behaviour followed their emotions accordingly.

Just a wee bit of imagery and info on whats going on.

Basically still work to be done but I have learned alot already and its been eye opening and has

questioned where my morals lie, and if they are unrealistic ideals. Froid and Flugels writings have challenged me the most. It has also proved my original preconceptions that fashion does affect behaviour but immoral behaviour is purely an opinion so its hard to define, in my eyes it does with the use of media exploitation of celebrities like jordan and a lack of modest clothing on the high street, the mass of clothing available is skimpy which in turn encourages provocative behaviour. So i feel it does, but, this immoral behaviour is dependant upon ideals and cultures.

free styling

so I've finally found my groove......... free hand painting!!! i was struggling slightly with stencils I had developed them into embellishments to give intricate detailing and depth but they were still lacking fluidity and just pizzaz, but whilst my tutor was flipping through my sketch book he noticed that it was awash with print ideas, that were free hand painted by myself.

IMAGE (left) this was the page in my sketchbook that flipped it for myself and tutor. My fabric samples will be up as soon as they are out of the steamer and washing machine.

So I've been on the screen with my inks (in the same colours as before) and have been free hand painting from my sketch book focusing on animal prints and skeletons from my observational sketches from Darwin's exhibitions. I am getting detail, depth, fluidity and colour.

Next I will be focusing on

colour selections next by restricting myself to 2 colours to give differentiati

on between them all, as some of my samples where the same colour concentration has been used are looking slig

htly same samey.

IMAGE: (left) the paper imprint of one my designs

AND enough is enough, i will be just doing my main ones, as my pattern is made, fabric is decided and theres no going back, so i need to get on with it!!!!

IMAGE: (below) paper imprint from a design that was painted on the screen directly inspired out of my sketchbook (top image)

fashion affects behaviour

So the dissertation is going ok- Im currently suffering with shingles so have been doing as much work as possible, at least its only the draft due in on monday. Its coming together better than i expected actually, Im just trying to source my pictures and theory together at the moment. Ive divided the text into three sections which Im very happy with. Im currently going through and tweaking and changing bits- its such a relief to have the main bulk of it done though.

Generally good progress happening, I need to check out Barthes, Friod, Breward and anyone else that I can get my hands on. Went into the Bury town today, the library and bookshops had a dire selection of fashion philosophers. So will be treking into colchester to the uni campus library to photocopy and check out as much theory as i can, as thats what Im seriously lacking.

I also feel my introduction and conclusion aren't strong enough. So i will be changing and possibly re-writting that. I dont feel Im introducing the topic well enough, and my conclusion just needs a change of words to give it more power.

Stenciling Revelation

Whilst in the studio the other day I was able to spread out and fully utilise all of the space on the printing table- which was very enjoyable. Setting up a production line doing 3 patterns at once. I was doing the only the top half of my designs to practice and perfect my technique with screen printing. But was still feeling messy and long-winded with the way in which I

was producing my print designs.

(Image of one design printed without the brown ink- the dress shape and sections are not as sharp as I would like)

So I reflected back on my work experience in Milan when I was working with textile designers. I visited factories where I saw print work being produced on mass- I was trying to remember their styles and techniques for developing and layering screen prints. It was all computerized and done by machinery which would explain the perfection- however during my sleep that night it came to me that its solid templates instead of finicky bits of card that are masking taped together that would work.

This morning I spent a few hours creating solid templates- one for my turquoise colour, one for the green, one for the grey and one for the brown. These protect the dress shape and keeps the structure of the stencils solid.

Whilst trialing it this afternoon- the time to print was much quicker only taking me an hour to print one design. And it kept the whole process cleaner and lines crisper. With no residue touching the exterior white silk. I feel Ive found the technique and now I need to create these templates for all of my designs.

Im also starting to embellish on top of some to see how this looks- I hoping it will give them greater depth and texture- as right now Im feeling slightly bored of the pattern and colours.

(Stencils layered up, showing the new stenciling style)

Nktbe & Velvet

So tuesday and wednesday were spent in the cubiq office where I wrote an article called 'we own the night' which is all about how to dress and look a cut and class above the crowd during the christmas and new years parties- i also was a part of the meeting to plan the next 6 months of the magazine- and selected all of the fashion articles/ subject and titles for decembers issue. Im receiving very positive feedback and feel i may have found the area that i would like to go into after graduating- fashion editorials/ journalism.

Meticulous Stenciling

A page from my sketchbooks of some designs, I was working on 2nd one in from the left today.

I stenciled my design onto silk/cotton fabric. Its far from perfect- the stenciling screen printing technique needs to seriously mastered. These are the things I can work on to keep it looking flawless:

1. allow the paint to dry before applying my next layer.

2. using double sticky tape to ensure my blocks don't move at all when squigeying the paint through the screen.

3. Being obsessive and concentrating fully

4. Getting 2 people to hold the screen down instead of one as its very large.

5. Ensuring no paint touches the outer fabric

The pattern and use of colour however looks powerful and affective. Which is what i wanted. It almost looks futuristic and the colouring gives a bold modern look. The shaping is flattering to the body which is another ambition I had.

By being clean and meticulous (which is not on my nature) I will be able to achieve the desired flawless clean affect- which is necessary as its 2d dress design shaping on a rectangle fabric- so the purity has to be there. This will be challenge but a necessary one that i need to overcome and refine. In order to perfect my skills I will practice with the top half of the drsesses until its looking good enough to be completed for the final piece.

I was also not very happy with the texture of the ink on the fabric- it went crispy and hard due to to the malutex in the solution- i hoping with steaming and washing with fabric softener this will losen and become fluid silk again.

Writing

Wednesday was I wrote the winter review- its a seasonal leaflet with the magazine that advises on the shops, restaurants and activities for that season. I wrote up the reviews for the individual shops, restaurants and activities. I was also able to put my own recommendations on places that had not be mentioned before- which was nice to be trusted, and to have my onion valued.

Im developing my writing skills also which is convenient for me as its practice that can be applied to my dissertation.

photoshooting

On monday i was out and about in cambridge taking photos for the magazine- we had to find gift ideas for christmas, for men, women, children and babies. Then select and arrange the products to get a good picture. It was fun and exciting to photograph, see and chat to the boutiques in cambridge.

I had to learn quickly the type of products to select that would be of interest to the reader and then how to display effectively.

When returning to the studio i helped the photographer with previous photo-shoots from marrs leather and six whiting street. We needed to select imagery then edit/ photoshop them to publish their look books. The images that worked best were the plainer ones as they drew the eye to the clothing or bags. I'm also learning about effective page layout with clean, simple lines and imagery to keep the layout looking fresh and professional.

Beauty Stalker, Gargoyles & Skeletons.

I wrote my first article for Velvet Magazine, at cubiq today- 'Beauty Stalker' To be part of a big professional team is very exciting. Also to receive have positive feedback from the editor was a huge compliment. The magazine is edgy, young and ambitious, so its a very influential place to be- Next week I'll be on location doing photo shoots with tom.... very exciting.

Ive split my sketchbook into 3 main inspirational routes/ sections:

1. Skins and Skeletons

2. Gargoyles and Mythological Creatures

3. Crests and Gilded Frames

Reflecting on my work (yesterday, this morning and evening) I feel successful with the amount of progress made. Its developed from a sketch book of drawings into a fashion design process. I've taken my drawing as inspiration for making patterns and placements prints on dresses. I would like to make 4 fronts for each collection.

In the skeletons and skins section there are 3 very successful designs with a few that can be collaborated and tweaked. This collection focuses on symmetrical prints. I want to use discharge printing and photoshop/ digital printing to create my McQueen, Angelo and Piloto inspired prints. The rich colour palette of greens, aqua, greys and browns, is also inspired from McQueens S/S 10 Collection.

My next section is gargoyles and mythological creatures. This is focusing over sized, placement printing and symmetrical prints, with the possibility/ option to embellish sections. Gargoyles are protecting my garments in very aggressive poses. Kane and Sui have largely influenced my designs- varying from intense sharp imagery to cartoon/ colloquial looking designs. The colour palette is drawn from the stone carved gargoyles themselves; boasting a strong colour palette of greys, blacks and white.

I feel confident and excited to start producing these into finished, refined products.

I'm also excited to start discharge printing tomorrow.

Synopsis Discussions

I've been reflecting on the dissertation discussions yesterday, and feel i need to read more theoretical work, then analyse, then state my opinion. I also feel i need to concentrate more fully on the impact of fashion choice, and the way in which it affects promiscuous behaviour, whilst acknowledging also if it doesn't. Concentrating mainly on 21st Century, Ive researched historical references but feel I need to look at the present day more, as my title is 'Does fashion/ clothing affect promiscuous behaviour?' The current attitude among my generation is my main focus.

My next steps are to conduct my case study, where I'll ask how a range of clothing makes the wearer feel. Whilst photographing the individuals.

I was also advised to read Froid's serious of essays on sex as he will he give me a new insight.