This Dress will be the Death of Me...

Ive been fighting with the toile of this design for 10 days now, its so painful.

The final fabric will be in a chiffon so its going to be pain but once constructed will look delicate and appear to be lightly dancing over the body.

1. Drafting out and constructing went smoothly enough until i slipped the bodice over the manikin, and it was loose and hanging round the bust area with the waist being a near perfect fit, so i went back to the draft and changed the shape of dart taking more out of the bust and a little from the waist.

2. Then the yoke and dart looked messy as they sat so close to each other, so i decided to split the bodice in two making it a 3 piece bodice removing the messiness of darts and keeping it slick and smooth, connecting the yoke as part of the three piece bodice.

(Showing the bodice with darts, yoke and ill fit)

(showing the bust dart and yoke being close together and so looking messy.)

3. The back was not fitting correctly and knowing that manikins don't always reflect a females correct proportions I placed it inside out on a female and pinned it until it fit, trying it on a few females to ensure it wasn't a bespoke fit to one female. Translated the alterations onto my pattern and stitched the correct darts.

(showing the excess fabric being pinned to create a fitted bodice.)

4. Now the bodice fit it was onto the skirt, this went smoothly, but now the toile is done I actually hate it. The skirt has too much body causing it to look frumpy and not very elegant, the toiling fabric is hard to see past as its hideous patterns mask the silhouette. The frills at the bottom look messy and causes the dress to look costumey. The bodice now looks messy with all the lines running through it. the frills, voluminous skirt and additional seams have caused it to look over done, periodic costumey, messy, frumpy and not delicate.

(front)

(back)

5. Working out the amount of space in the darts I simply cut and gather to create the fitted bodice lighthly steaming and pressing to create delicate creases in the fabric which will generate delicacy.

(showing he new shape and dart style)

6. Cutting a simple and rectangle and slightly gathering creates a gentle skirt for the dress and removing the frills eradicates the messiness, costume and frumpy elements.

(showing the new slimline skirt oozing with delicacy and femininity.)

Developing Colour...

The colours from the pheasant and Geddes family tartan and the very essence of country but am lacking in militant colours and seriously lacking the softness and delicacy from the inspirational imagery. It looks far too harsh, and is not generating the right emotions and feelings for my playful collection, but is looking dull, dark and monotone. There is no depth or variety of colour and is therefore lacking in drama, and the delicate colours are desperately needed for the floaty femininity.

Through Developing 2 colour stories one consisting of delicate tonals, peaches, cold and warm grays, plum purple, deep dusky pink, grubby lemons and duck egg blues will create a dramatic feminine colour palette- the decision of these colours have come from looking at inspirational imagery and evaluating why these colours work and the mood they create combined with the design is one of fragility yet power, naivety yet seduction and femininity.

Selecting colors from inspirational imagery consisting of and the delicate tonals and contrasting blue and yellow as previously discussed I then developed the colours into a series of tones through using photoshop and colour picker then developing and the colour story analysing colour groupings until the final colour story is dramatic, delicate and oozing with femininity.

The other needs to be a masculine colour palette reflecting on khaki militant wear, regimental naval golds and blue, pistachio and evergreen greens for the country pursuits, black, deep chocolate brown and primary yellow- once again these colours have come from looking at inspirational imagery and evaluating why the colours work and the mood they create.

Selecting colors from the Geddes family tartan and the basic greens, khakis and browns as previously discussed I then developed the colours into a series of tones through using photoshop and colour picker then developing and the colour story analysing colour groupings until the final colour story is dramatic, defined and punctual.

Disastrous Prints... Alleluia Moments...

All of my print designs were looking dull, this is due to a hazey colour palette that obtains no drama, the hue of colours chosen are montone. Changing the colour palette to dramtise my designs will maxmise my design ideas aswell as lifting it.

The drawings from shapes within the feather (above)

Embellishment ideas/ development (below)

Using the whole peasant instead of segments to create the print design.

The print designs look murky and stodgy, they generate no mood of obtain no necessity to my designs, feeling very low and uninspired I looked at my inspirational imagery and realised that none of it has prints, a few embellishment details but is mainly constructed pieces, so felt slightly foolish but also relieved as it answered alot questions. The colour story was all wrong, as were the prints, a change in focus and energy has me very excited again.

Fabric Collection and Sourcing

For the final major project I've ordered a few metres of silk jersey and velvet for sampling, (as I know I will definitely use these fabrics within my collection) and I've ordered samples to decide on fabric as they will optmise and develop my designs. With the fabric I've ordered tomorrow I'll start dyeing to develop the pheasant inspired colour palette.

Ive ordered silk jersey, cotton jersey, ribbing, velvet, silk satin spandex and georgette from Whaleys.

Geddes family tartan in a variety of cottons to heavy weight wools from The House of Tartan.

Versailles

I found the sheer indulgence and extravagance of Versailles very tempting. So much that at lunch time had the Marie-Antoinette dessert platter including macaroons, pastries and chocolate cake. The lavishness and grande scale is slightly ludicrous and very surreal. I don't want my collection to be as dramatic and over the top as Versailles, but do love the secret indulgences and comfort aspect in the bedrooms, I want my collection to me slightly seductive, indulgent and comfortable.

Premiere Vision- Indigo

The day that I worked on our stand at Premiere Vision the trains weren't running to parc des exhibitions so it was very quiet- as a result there weren't many people also with it being student day we were constantly bombarded with students. I found walking around, viewing other stands very enlightening though.

J'adore Paris

I find the intricate detailing in every part of Paris so inspiring, no minute detail has been overseen; lamp posts, grande stair cases, ceiling details, curbs and door handles. Its the city of romance in so many ways. I want to reproduce this intricate detailing in my design process giving thought to tiny details in pockets and embellishments.

Rag and Bone AW 2010

Neville and Wainwright have meshed together a variety of diverse elements to create a stunning and very interesting collection. Its once again shown me how successful a diverse spectrum of inspiration can be. This collection is one I can really relate on both a design and customer perspective.

Band of Outsiders AW 2010

Sternback recreates the classic american preppy style but in an exciting, utility way. Every piece can be re-worked into an existing wardrobe, its a very accessible label, and to me there's no point designing or creating fashion unless it can lived in and re-worked, as it becomes cherished. This is not the only element I adore about Band of Outsiders its the quirkiness and mix-matching which is what my collection is about, combining random elements together. I also adore the closeness between the mens and womens wear and how they are often displayed together as one collection.